November 25th, 2010

November 25th, 2010, Day for the Elimination of Violence Against Women. The Law for a Life Free of Violence for Women in El Salvador is approved. As the country with the number one rate of femicides in the world, its about time something changes.  Hopefully this law will actually be enacted.  

Here is why...

On October 21st, on the Las Quebradas finca, in the municipality of Talnique, La Libertad, the bodies of Clarisa Ortiz Valle,14 years old; Julia Araceli Hernández Torres, 14 years old;  María Vicenta Ávalos Pérez, 15 years old and Georgina Lisseth Álvarez Cruz, 18 years old, were found stangled and maimed at the hands of supposed friends of theirs.

In the past ten years in El Salvador, violence against women has increased by 197%, making it the number one place for femicides in the world, with 129.46 assassinations per one million women.

Jesuit Martyr's Vigil

"No hay amor cristiano sin lucha de justicia" 
"There is no Christian love without a fight for justice"
-Ignacio Ellacuria S.J., killed Nov. 16th 1989

Yesterday was the UCA Vigil for the six Jesuits, their housekeeper and her daughter who were killed at the UCA, 21 years ago.  The Nicaragua VM's came up for the event and we stayed until after 12.  Ali's first vigil!  This is part of the theme quote of the year.  Here are my pictures.

A Mother's Heart

I wrote this after spending the day working with a team who was interviewing women who participated in the Civil War here in El Salvador.

I think every mother
has the same heart.
In that the thing that we love the most
And the thing that we most fear losing
Are the same.

Something in our biology
That makes us ache for our children if we haven't seen them enough
That puts our attention on something else first, before ourselves
Is he hungry? Is she safe? Will they always feel my love?

And it is that heart
That breaks
For other mothers
And their loss.

My heart, my mother heart,
breaks with the pain of the Salvadoran mother.

Victims of Hurricane Ida: Presente!

A year ago today, Hurricane Ida hit El Salvador and killed over 200 people while destroying thousands of homes due to poor housing construction and environmental degradation.  Today, a beautiful day in El Salvador, we remember those who died and those whose lives were affected for ever.  To quote my friend Beth, "I believe that people shouldn't die when it rains."  Read about her organization, CEIBA, which was founded after last years disaster.

Churchwomen Commemoration

"Am I willing to suffer with the people here, the suffering of the powerless,

 the feeling impotent?  

Can I say to my neighbors   I have no solutions to this situation; I don't know the answers, but I will  

walk with you, search with you, be with you. Can I let myself be evangelized by this opportunity?  

Can I look at and accept my own poorness as I learn it from the poor ones?" 

Ita Ford said that the year she was killed.

At SHARE, I am planning delegation for the 30th Anniversary of the deaths of Jean Donovan, Dorothy Kazel, Ita Ford and Maura Clarke.  Ita and Maura were Maryknoll nuns, Dorothy was a Ursuline nun and Jean was a Maryknoll lay missionary.  In 1980 they were all in El Salvador working with refugees and communities affected by the impending Civil War.  On December 2, while driving back from the airport, they were followed by the Salvadoran armed forces.  They were kidnapped, taken to a field in rural El Salvador, raped and killed.

SHARE and many other solidarity organizations are built of the legacy of the solidarity of people like those four women who gave their lives to stay in El Salvador and work for the Salvadoran people.  That is why we are planning a delegation to commemorate the anniversary of their deaths.

One of the other things we did to commemorate the anniversary was produce a Commemoration Packet for communities in the States to plan events.  Check out the packet.  I invite you all do read the packet and if you are up to it, plan something in your community!

Day of the Dead

In the United States we celebrate Halloween.  Why? I don't really know the history behind the holiday.

In Mexico, on November 1st, Day of the Dead is celebrate.  Apparently its a big deal, with alters, food and celebrations and ceremonies.   I have never been so I can't say much more.

But in El Salvador, Day of the Dead is celebrate on November 2nd.  All Souls Day.  Salvadorans all make the trek to the cemetery to enflorar or put flowers and clean up the graves of their loved ones.


But some Salvadorans aren't so lucky to have graves for their loved ones.  A 12 year Civil War left 75,000 dead or disappeared. 

Scholarship Students in El Salvador

Here is another video I made last month from interviews I did with four scholarship students in Tecoluca, San Vicente in rural El Salvador.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3plKduaJFQ

Buen Pastor Artisans

This was an interview done with artisans from the Buen Pastor community outside of Aguilares in Northern San Salvador.  Buen Pastor is a sistering community of Good Shepherd in Kansas and works with SHARE's counterpart UCRES.

The Massacre at the Calabozo

I recently wrote a reflection that I posted on the SHARE blog about the Calabozo massacre that happened in Northern San Vicente, El Salvador in 1982. Check out the share blog to read the reflection. Also be sure to check out the following post which features a song that a young man from the community wrote about the massacre.

Click here to read about the Massacre at Calabozo

Youth at the Vigil for the massacre victims

A Tale of Two Hospitals

This is a reflection about my visit to the private hospital and then the public hospital of El Salvador all in the same day with students on our delegation from Eastern Michigan University.

If you only went to the Hospital Diagnostico, you might not be able to relieve that a hospital like Rosales existed in the country and vice versa.

We went to the Diagnostico first and were given a tour by one of the young residents. Her English was quite good and she was incredibly friendly and helpful. We moved through the cool rooms with the artistic Salvadoran paintings, nice floors, and clean facilities. The hospital used to be a mall and you can see by the set up, do to this unique architecture, specialists are able to have their own offices. We were able to visit the room with one of the only MRI machines in the country and we peaked into the quiet ICU.

The patient rooms were individual rooms with private bathrooms, nice furniture and plasma TV’s. On the fifth floor where the rooms where oldest, the TV’s were not plasma but the view of the city from the balcony was amazing.

In the waiting room we watched as a small boy in overalls was whisked in by his nanny with a cut finger. He was immediately seen by the doctors. As we visited the emergency, the boy cried as they cleaned his finger. His young mother and father had entered and his father comforted him: “Don’t cry, this weekend we will go back Apaneca and you can ride horses again, wouldn’t you like that?”

We finished the tour, thanked our young doctor and headed to Mr. Donut for a quick lunch before arriving at hospital number 2.

It is hard to put the experience of Hospital Rosales into words, but I’ll try.

The chief of residents who took us around the hospital also spoke English. He had studied a semester in the hospital at Yale, so he must have had some concept of the vast ocean that existed between a private hospital and the one he worked at.

Rosales was various buildings. Many of which are the same as when they were build in 1904. The beds in all the wards were full. The first wards were giant high cieling rooms with about fifteen beds in each. We walked into the room for people with kidney failure. A resident was pumping air into the lungs of a patient for lack of a breathing machine. It was hot and there was no AC. Hospital staff moved around from one person to another. Some family rubbed the backs of their family who grimaced in pain.

The AIDS ward was similar.

The Emergency room was a horror. Full of people who looked as if they had come from the most remote corner of the country. Bent over, coughing, with homemade bandages. Some people leave their homes at 3am to arrive here the doctor said. They usually wait on average 4 hours before they are seen. People who need a bed sometimes wait three days. If there are no beds, they roll out towels on the floor while they wait for a doctor.

The OR had about 6 patients many of whom looked gravely, gravely ill. A man in a chair who was not able to have a bed do to the lack of them, explained to a nurse the pain in his chest that was probably a heart attack.

As we reached the nicer wards, the ones with air conditioning, but still very evident of Salvadoran poverty. We saw where the flu patients are kept. One girl in our group asked: why do you give the nicer rooms with AC to the people who aren’t as sick? This may be hard to hear, the doctor said, but we have very few resources, we have to prioritize. Many times we give priority to the people who are younger who have a better chance of living.

We walked on. This is one of the few public, full scale hospitals in the country, he told us. It is free, that is why people come all over. Most of them have to ask for a dollar to get back to their homes. We ourselves don’t have the resources to have enough doctors or enough medicine. We have a whole ward build by the government of Germany in disuse because we don’t have enough Money to pay the staff. When we do open it, we will give it to patients with renal failure, a very common illness here—it’s the farmers who get it, the ones who have been poisoned by the pesticides.

We walked on, sick person after sick person. We reached the end and thanked the doctor. He thanked us. Now you see, he said, the difference between private and public hospitals.

Like I said. Had I just gone to Rosales, I couldn’t have believed that a place like the Diagnostico existed. And vice versa.

Back pain

This is a reflection on the week in June that I spent as a medical interpreter at the clinic at Maria Madre de los Pobres Catholic Church in La Chacra, San Salvador. The medical professionals who I interpreted for come to El Salvador everyone on a SHARE delegation from Visitation Parish in Kansas City.

She was a street vendor who walked around carrying a giant tub of juice cans. The pain in her heals was unbearable.

He threw his back out six years ago. He still has horrible pain. He thought it was cancer. But really it was the fact that he lifted tires everyday and put more and more strain on his back.

She lost her arm during the war. Her husband just had a stroke and is paralyzed, she now does everything for him and work to support them. She can't sleep from back pain.

She was hit by a motorcycle two years ago. She and her daughter and grandson received death threats until the boy fled the community. They cried when they talked about being afraid. They both have knee and back pain.

She didn't know that there is no pill for her mother's alzheimer's. I explained it to her as best as I could.

His knees are shot from arthritus. But he needs the factory job, and so he continues to climb up steps and lift stacks of metal plates.

She can't afford the medicine for her Parkinson's. She came to see if we would give her a cane.

One by one, they sat down with us. Soy Laura y voy a traducir. Supposedly a translator is just a tool for the doctor, but the pain they carried stuck to me and I couldn't forget after they left. Everyone was carrying some kind of pain. We taught them leg, knee, back and neck exercises. To strengthen and stretch. To give some relief. Something that could possibly be more sustainable to a pill. We were able to give some of them canes. We hoped it would work. But we couldn't give them new shoes, new floors to walk on or beds to sleep on. We couldn't give them access to a swimming pool to do their exercises. We couldn't give them new jobs or new homes. We couldn't take them out of La Chacra and the poverty and violence. We could teach some breathing techniques but we couldn't take away the stressors.

On Friday, after all the patient visits, we went with the group to the UCA to see the sacred site. On the wall there was a drawing I had never seen on previous visits. Stick figures going through their day to day life. Working in construction, repairing cars, walking through the market. Each one was drawn with a cross on their back. The cross that the poor person carries as they go through their day. No one is going to give them a break, a win. The cross gets heavier and it weighs them down. No wonder they all have back pain.

A Romero quote

In El Salvador we go along with our daily lives and then are out of the blue sometimes hit with the reality of the violence that happens here or has happened here. Today while going through SHARE files, I came across a piece written about the 4 American Churchwomen who were killed and started to read it. At one point I stopped reading and realized that I was crying, I guess there are somethings that you can never be immune to, even after living here for a year and a half.

Shortly after I came across this Romero quote and decided to post it. The priest he mentions Alfonso Navarro was killed by paramilitary troops on May 11, 1977, about 1 week and twenty two years ago. He was one of many church leaders and community workers who were brutally assissinated during that time in El Salvador's history. I was most hit by the very last line. Here is it is:

"Who knows if the one whose hands are bloodied with Father
Grande's murder, or the one who shot Father Navarro, if those who
have killed, who have tortured, who have done so much evil, are
listening to me? Listen, there in your criminal hideout, perhaps
already repentant, you too are called to forgiveness."
December 18, 1977

December in El Salvador

I just posted a reflection about the church women and I mentioned a movie called "Roses in December," there is one part in the movie when Jean Donovan talks about the beauty of El Salvador and says "where else would you find roses blooming in December?" I hadn't paid too much attention to this quote until now when I am spending December in El Salvador and have discovered the same thing that she did which is: December is one of the most beautiful months in El Salvador.

December in Cincinnati can be a pretty depressing month because the winter season officially kicks in and you know that you will be really cold until about March. This is either helped or aggravated (sometimes both) by the overwhelming season of Christmas. While I can get a little sick to my stomach from too much Christmas cookies, music and mall shopping, there can be something calming and peaceful about a room lit only by Christmas lights and a fire as Carol of the Bells plays softly in the background and snow falls outside. That is not what Christmas decorations are like in El Salvador. They are usually very tacky and out of place, and (in my opinion) completely drowned out by the beautifully blossoming flowers and bright blue skies.

El Salvador December days can turn hot but not too hot and the nights are breezy. The rainy season is over but things haven't dried up completely yet. As you walk through the streets or drive through the countryside, you see brilliant flowers that are colored bright red, magenta, yellow, orange and white. So, today I actually walked through the streets in my neighborhood with my camera to document some of December's finest blossoms. Here are some of my favorites:

The neighborhood around my El Salvador homeThis is the bus I take to work (the yellow flowers are my favorites)

There are flowers everywhere you lookA house by where I work

And to show that I also can appreciate the beauty of December in Ohio, here is one more:

My home in Ohio

Remembering the Churchwomen

While I was at home, I watched the movie "Roses in December" with my mom. The movie tells the story of Jean Donovan, a Catholic lay missioner who was murdered along with three nuns by the Salvadoran army on December 2, 1980. I had seen the movie before when I was a student at the Casa but that was almost four years ago. The movie was made just a few years after the women were murdered so it is very dated but it was really good to watch it with my mom because it does a good job of putting the story into the context of the war. We watched it on December 1st which was the day before the anniversary of their death. I found a reflection written by a Sister on a delegation to El Salvador with the SHARE foundation and I want to share a part of it

"It was 23 years ago today that four churchwomen were found in a shallow grave in a farmer’s field, some raped, all dead-- each with a single bullet to their head.

The description of such violence was not at all uncommon in 1980 in El Salvador- a countryside desecrated by civil war, a people not at all defeated by the horrors they lived daily. A resurrection people, fed by the blood of the martyrs and the bread of daily struggle for a better life created the peace filled scene I witnessed today--a lovely pasture populated with a smart brick chapel, a beautiful white stone monument complete with a memorial plaque and a tree that is planted in the center of an area outlined with small white rocks. A lovely space- now filled with local folks and their living memory of war and peace accords; Latin American religious sisters revisiting the core of their passion, commitment and witness; and people from the North – standing in solidarity.

Aiding and abetting the enemy, the ‘subversive acts’ of the nuns and one lay missioner were caring for victims of war and war- orphaned children. Addressing the social, political and economic disparity between the rich and the poor, teaching methods of self-empowerment, and community development were direct threats to the power structure of the ruling class. In those times threats were eliminated. "

-http://www.share-elsalvador.org/reflections/usnuns.htm

As I read the reflection and as I watched the movie, I found myself tearing up at the images of the women´s bodies being pulled out of ditches, of people getting shot at while attending Archbishop Romero´s funeral mass, and of the children in the refugee camps. Sometimes I forget the horrorific history of this country during the civil war. This makes sense as I work with young people who were mostly born at the end of or after the war. But that does not mean that they are unaffected. A culture, a country, takes years and years to recover from such trauma.

As with the Jesuit vigil, I am reminded as to why I, a north american women, am in El Salvador. Jean Donovan gave up a very comfortable life in the states to work with refugees in El Salvador. I remember how inspired I was by this the first time that I heard of her. A woman who was inspired to walk alongside people who were being persecuted and ignored by the rest of the world. Granted, my life in El Salvador is very different than that of those lay missioners who came in the eighties. While still violent, El Salvador is not at war, and I don´t fear for my life much more than I did living in St. Louis (which is a little but not too much). But it is still good to remember who inspired me to be here, and that is all women and men from all over who gave up something comfortable and easy to fight for something that they believed was right. I will close with a quote from Ita Ford, one of the four women who was killed:

"I hope you come to find that which gives life a deep meaning for you. Something worth living for - maybe even worth dying for, something that energizes you, enthuses you, enables you to keep moving ahead."

The UCA Vigil

Every year on November 15th, the University of Central America (UCA) celebrates the anniversary of the death of six Jesuits and two women who were killed on its grounds in 1989.
They were:
Ignacio Ellacuria
Amando Lopez
Ignacio Martin Baro
Juan Moreno
Segundo Montes
Joaquin Lopez y Lopez
Elba Ramos
Celina Ramos


Here is a brief description of what happened:

"On November 16, 1989, six Jesuit priests - Ignacio Ellacuria, Segundo Montes, Ignacio Martin-Baro, Joaquin Lopez y Lopez, Juan Ramon Moreno, and Amado Lopez - were murdered by the Salvadoran military on the campus of the University of Central America (UCA) in San Salvador, El Salvador. Their housekeeper, Elba Ramos, and her daughter Celia Marisela Ramos, were murdered there as well. The Jesuits were labeled subversives by the Salvadoran Government for speaking out against the oppressive socioeconomic structure of Salvadoran society. Their assassinations were ordered for their unwavering defense of the poor.

The Jesuits were six of over 70,000 victims who died in El Salvador’s civil war which raged in the 1980’s and early 1990’s. The vast majority of these victims were civilians killed by El Salvador’s armed forces and paramilitary death squads. The death of the Jesuits brought international outrage and condemnation upon the Salvadoran Government and pressured them to negotiate an end to their country’s civil war."

-http://www.spc.edu/pages/1814.asp


The Vigil is really incredible. During the day people spend hours hunched over the walkway of the UCA creating beautiful "alfombras" or sand art. Designs relating to their group and or the memory of the Jesuits. Then at six at night, when all of the alfombras are finished, there is a candle lighting ceremony in which every person at the vigil (which were a lot) recieved a candle to carry through the procession and than lit the candle of the lights of others. At around six thirty the procession begun in which the crowd formed left the University gates and walked the distance to the other entrance where they then walked over the beautiful alfombras that had been created for just this. It was a very moving experience to see so many people honoring the memory of those who gave their life for what they believed in. Here is the picture I took of the procession:


After the procession their was a very big mass which was followed by all night festivities. A number of artisans were selling their crafts and a number of UCA groups were selling food. People had come from all over El Salvador and all over the world to be here the entire night. Different music groups played a mix of traditional folk music and newer "world music." I am told that the festivities go on until six in the morning when the sun comes out and the busses are running again. I left at 12:30 so I didn't stay to find out. I was so glad I went though, these type of events remind me as to why I am in El Salvador and thats good to do every once in a while.

Cristiani and others charged with war crimes for the death of the UCA Jesuits

Former El Salvador leader in war crimes case

• Story Highlights
• Case involves killing of 6 Jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her daughter
  
• 14 former Salvadoran military officers also accused of war crimes
  
• Most of the slain Jesuits were born in Spain
  
• One of the most notorious episodes of El Salvador's 12-year civil war

By Al Goodman CNN Madrid Bureau Chief

MADRID, Spain (CNN) -- Human rights groups from the United States and Spain filed a lawsuit in a Spanish court Thursday, charging El Salvador's former president, Alfredo Cristiani, with covering up crimes against humanity.

The case involves the killing of six Jesuit priests, their housekeeper and her teenaged daughter nearly two decades ago during El Salvador's civil war.

In addition, 14 former Salvadoran military officers are accused of war crimes, murders and state terrorism in connection with the massacre dating back to November 1989.

Most of the slain Jesuits were born in Spain. They were killed at their residence at the prestigious Central American University, in El Salvador's capital, San Salvador. Reports at the time said they were tortured and then shot.

It has become one of the most notorious episodes of El Salvador's 12-year civil war that pitted leftist guerrillas against the U.S.-backed conservative government. Some 75,000 people died.

The case filed by two human rights groups in Madrid argues that justice was never done in El Salvador. Two military officers were convicted of murder in 1991 in the deaths of the Jesuits, but were pardoned in 1993 under an amnesty law approved by the national assembly.

The case was taken to Spain's National Court, because of its involvement in other high-profile human rights cases.

The same Spanish court issued an arrest warrant for former Chilean dictator Augusto Pinochet in 1998, while he was in a London hospital. For the rest of his life he fought legal battles -- first in England and later in Chile -- to avoid convictions.

The Spanish court has also taken on human rights cases from other countries, including Argentina and Guatemala, testing a relatively new international legal principle known as Universal Jurisdiction.

It contends that if justice for human rights abuses is not served in the country where the crime occurred, then a court in another country can intervene.

The groups filing suits are the San Francisco-based Center for Justice and Accountability and the Spanish Association for Human Rights.

Family members from at least two of the slain Jesuits will join the lawsuit later, the groups said.

It could take the National Court weeks or even months to determine if it will accept the case.

Spain and El Salvador have an extradition treaty. But a lawyer for the Center for Justice and Accountability told CNN that the most immediate practical effect of the case might be an effective ban on Cristiani and the 14 former officers from leaving El Salvador, for fear of arrest.

If they were ever tried before a Spanish court and convicted on the charges, they could serve up to 30 years in prison.

In an interview with CNN a few months before he was killed, university rector Ignacio Ellecuria praised then-president Cristiani, whom the human rights groups now accuse of covering up the crime.

"We have to recognize that Cristiani is a man of his word, who keeps his promises," Ellecuria told CNN. "Personally I consider Cristiani an ethical, responsible person who will not offer to do what he can't or doesn't wish to do."

Ignacio Martin-Baro, another slain Jesuit, spoke at the time about the chilling effect of the long-running Salvadoran civil war.

"We have become used to violence," Martin-Baro said. "We have become used to living in a very dangerous world. We have learned to live, accepting death, extraordinary abnormal death into our lives."

For years, the extreme right in El Salvador had accused the Jesuits of siding with the leftist guerrillas, according to a CNN report shortly after the killings.

Uniformed troops were seen searching the living quarters of the priests at Central American University two days before they were killed, CNN reported.



Alfredo Cristiani in 1994 shortly after he voted during the country's second round presidential runoff.

The Gender and Sexuality Workshop

Part of the work that we do at CFO is planning workshops around important issues for youth like human rights, nonviolent communication, self-esteem, leadership, sexuality, etc. Some of these topics interest the youth we work with more than others. Nonviolent communication, for example, seems to be a pretty hard concept for a lot of them to grasp, understandably so as these communities have a very violent history which has shaped the way people live and interact. Sexuality, however, seems to be one of the most popular themes and once the kids get past the initial embarrassment, they REALLY want to talk about it. Which is good, because not many other people are really talking about it with them. According to the kids that I have talked to, public health workers come into the schools about once a year and give a quick overview of basic sexual health. At home, it is often not talked about. But this lack of atention to something that is so much on the minds of teenagers is a big problem in a country where 1/3 of babies are born to teenage mothers and the number of new HIV cases is rising every year.

In talking about sexuality there are a lot of myths and taboos to break down, and not surprisingly, a lot of them relate to women. For that reason, gender workshops for men and for women have become very needed. In one community where we work, Community Raul Rivas Vasquez, all of last year was dedicated to learning about sexuality. This year, in trying to continue some with the theme, we have started a girls group to meet seperately from the guys and to have a space to talk about gender, among other things, in a space that is safe. About a month ago, we did a half day workshop on gender and then went on a field trip in the afternoon to Los Planes de Renderos, a famous scenic lookout about the city. We took twenty-girls as well as three kids who are children of the partipants, two little sisters who were being babysat and couldn't be left alone, a woman from the community who helped us organize the group, her grandson. It was quite an adventure.

The workshop agenda was to briefly touch on sexuality basics and then look at the gender roles in Salvadoran society. It was really interesting to listen to what they thought and ways they all thought alike and the things the disagreed on. The girls have a ton of energy which made the activites fun, though sometimes a little hard to get under control. Overall though, it went really well. Here are some of my observations about the day
1) Almost all of the girls felt that they were trapped in their homes to run the house while their parents worked while their brothers were free to roam the streets and live as they pleased
2) The situation for women in El Salvador, though still very poor, has changed a good deal in the past few decades, so for these girls some of the gender rules do not feel as strong as it does for older Salvadoran women
3) Though all from the same community, a few girls have higher levels of education (they have been able to attend high school or the university, something that is not very common for young people in their community). The ones with higher level of education were more critical of objectification of women.
4) Most of the girls (including the three mothers in the group) did not see men as reliable when it comes to helping support a family

I feel as if I am constantly learning more and more about Salvadoran society through what I see everyday. This workshop was fascinating for me and I really hope that the girls took something from it as well. The field trip to Los Planes was a lot of fun, despite some slight rain and the fact that we had to cram ourselves into a pickup to get there. We took a ton of pictures and you can check them out on my facebook account. Just click on the link below. The second half of the pictures are of a mural that we did in the same community a few days later.

Click to see pictures!!!

Hope you enjoy!

pic of some of the girls from the lookout at El Puerto del Diablo (the Devil's Door), the lookout point in Los Planes de Renderos

Food in El Salvador

About two months ago I got inspired by my brother's Argentina blog and decided I was going to write a blog about food in El Salvador. This is me actually getting around to doing that.

So here it goes... food in El Salvador. There are somethings about the food here that I absolutely loved from the start, then there are some things that took me awhile to come around too. There are also those things about Salvadoran food that I really don't like. Seeing as I can't possibly touch on all of it, I will try to hit the highlights.

Comida Tipica
This is the term you to describe typical Salvadoran plates, or the food that Salvadorans most often eat, which would be: rice and beans, Salvadoran tortillas (made from corn, smaller and a lot thicker than Mexican tortillas), sour cream, avocado, Salvadoran cheese (fresco which is softer or duro which is harder, both VERY salty), fried or boiled plantains, scrambled eggs with vegetables and of course COFFEE!!! A few comments: 1) the coffee is served with a ton of sugar and everyone including children drink it, usually its very weak 2) it has taken me a really long time to be able to get used to the sour cream and cheese 3) when the rice and beans are mixed they are called casamiento which means marriage. Everything is seasoned with salt and lime.

Fruit
I've already written a whole blog entry about fruit in El Salvador so I won't elaborate too much, but its definitely one of my favorite things about the food here. Mangoes, oranges, jocotes, mamays, anonas, zapote, mamones, papaya, pineapple, coconut, arrayan, bananas, etc. The can all be bought from street vendors and in markets like the Mercado Zacamil close to my apartment. On street corners and family run cafeterias all of the city you can buy smoothies, called licuados which is any of these fruits mixed with milk, orange juice or carrot juice. It's one of my favorite things for breakfast. Another favorite fruity treat is natural ice cream that is sold mainly by men pushing carts through neighborhoods and parks.

Jocotes

Vegetables
This is mostly the same, but some special veggies found here are pipian-probably one of my favorite vegetables ever which is kind of like zuchinni and squash but sweeter. There is also guisquil, a big watery squash; ayote, another famous squash; and lorocco, which are tiny buds that grow on a vine. People also eat the national flower which is called Flor de Izote.

Pan Dulce (Sweet Bread)
Small bakeries can be found pretty much every couple of blocks in San Salvador though the quality of the bread sold at them differs greatly. For example the bakery closest to my house is not that great while the bakery by the Participacion Juvenil office is one of the best bakery's I've been too. At the bakery you can buy pan dulce which includes donuts, semita, maria luisa, empanadas, etc, etc. All different types of sweet bread that are oftened flavored with icing and filled with creme or pineapple jelly. My favorite and one of the more famous of Salvadoran pan dulce is quesadilla, which is NOT like a Mexican quesadilla. It's like a sweet cornbread that is made with cheese, its delicious.

Pupusas
This is its own category because its the most famous Salvadoran food. For those who don't know, a pupusa is a Salvadoran tortilla, which like I said is thicker and made with ground corn, that is stuffed usually with beans and cheese, porkrind and cheese, lorocco with cheese, cheese alone or my preference, beans alone. It is served with a watery tomato salsa and curtido which is like pickled cabbage and carrott relish. Pupusas are eaten primarily for breakfast or dinner and are EVERYWHERE is El Salvador. There is a pupuseria next too my house which we like to hit up at least once a week.


Maiz (Corn)
I am including this as a category because a large number of Salvadoran typical foods are made from corn. They say that corn was holy to the indigenous that lived around here and that it is understable why when you see how much food can come from it. I already mentioned pupusas and tortillas, but those are not the only things. Tamales are another popular food which is salty, soft, corn dough filled with veggies or chicken and cooked inside a corn stalk leaf rolled up. Tamales are also served sweetened instead of salty and fried. Atol is a thick creamy drink that is made from corn but is sweetened almost like pudding. Shuco is a salty thick drink made from blue corn and served with hot sauce and beans and eaten by dipping bread in it. Corn is also served toasted with lime and salt or as elote loco which is cooked corn on a stick slathered in ketchup, mustard, mayonaise, holaindaise sauce and sprinkled in cheese. I enjoy all of these foods except the last one which I think is disgusting.

Drinks that I have not mentioned
One type of drink I like is fresco which is juice that is usually served at lunch time and made by mixing fresh fruit juice, water, sugar and ice. Flavors include: Flor de Jamaica (made from a flower petal and also served as tea), tamarindo, arrayan, orange and pineapple. Horchata is also served at lunch time, this is sweetened rice milk. As for hot drinks, besides coffee, which is drinken by everyone at anytime regardless of age or temperature, the main other hot drink is chocolate, which is Mexican chocolate melted and mixed with hot water. I really like it a lot, though some people really don't (my friend dropped her camera down an outhouse toilet while trying to covertly dump out the chocolate that was given to her at an event).

Other highlights
Pasteles: veggies or meat cooked into fried dough and served with curtido (see pupusas)
Arroz con leche: hot rice with milk, cinnamon and sugar
Coconut milk: most often drinken by chopping off the top of a coconut and sticking a straw in it
Empanadas: stuffed pastry with veggies or meat
chocofruta: bananas, strawberries, pineapple or grapes on a stick dipped in chocolate
Poleada: vanilla custard
Churros españoles: fried dough covered in sugar and served at fairs (like funnel cake)
Dulces: coconut or tamarindo concentrate sweetened and served at fairs

Things I think don't like about Salvadoran food:
Sopa de pata: which is cow foot soup
Tortas: fried sandwiches with ham and massive amounts of mayo and ketchup
Lack of good salad (salad is lettuce with one tomato and salt on top)
The amount of oil used in everything
The fact that at lunch time EVERYTHING has meat in it
How often hot dogs are cut up and thrown in with pasta, eggs or beans

Those are my highlights and lowlights of Salvadoran food. There are other things that are okay that I have not covered but maybe for the next food blog. I hope anyone reading feels like they learned a little about food in El Salvador!

more than a statistic

El Salvador can be a very dangerous place, so they say. When people give overviews of the country to foreigners, they usually quote some statistic saying its the second most or third most dangerous country in the world with the most homicides per capita in Latin America. When I was a student here I was always so blown away with these facts and in every encounter I had with Salvadorans I would be thinking about how they have been affected by the war or poverty or violence. But since moving here and starting a life in El Salvador, the shock statistics have slipped to the back of my mind and my attention has gone more daily concerns like what to teach in English class, or how out of control the kids in certain groups are or even where I am going to buy the vegetables and cat food. Sometimes when reading the paper or talking to people in the communities, the topic of violence will come up by I find that I am less shocked by these accounts partly because as I did not see it nor know the person, they seem so far away, even if they happened within a five minute walk from my house. But, in a place with a homicide rate as high as El Salvador, it is inevitable that eventually you will know someone who is killed in a very violent manner.

Two weeks ago tonight, on October 3rd, in the community Sierra Alta, two guys from our group in that community were shot and killed while playing cards on the steps in front of the park. At 6:30 at night in this community it was not at all uncommon for young people to hang out on the main corner in front of the little park where all of our group meetings are held. This night it had just started to rain as it so often does at nighttime in October, so most of the kids had headed back to their homes and only two stayed to finish their card game. They were doing exactly that when five young men with guns walked up from around the corner and shot them to death. Maico, his mother's only son, had just turned fifteen and died right there two blocks from his home. Noe, a twenty-one year old with a wife and a three year old son, was rushed to the hospital with nineteen bullets in his body and he died on the operating table. When I visited the following day with my coworkers to visit the stunned, grieving and terrified kids and families of Sierra Alta, there were bullet holes in the wall and blood still on the concrete. On the ground there were a few remaining bloodstained playing cards scattered on the ground.

That night I attended the "vela" along with a number of others from CFO. Traditionally, a vela is held in the homes of the deceased on the night before their burial. Friends and people from the community come to the house to sit with the family and the body all night until the funeral. There is usually coffee, food and praying. This vela was night held in the community due to the fear that the people who killed the boys would take advantage of everyone being in the same place and return. After all, no one knows why it was these specific boys in this specific community on that specific day, they don't know if there was a reason behind the killings or if it was just to instill fear, if it was gang related or not. Some even mentioned that they thought it could be political since these guys were more into the FMLN and soccer than anything else. But, as it was, not many of the young people showed up to the vela anyone due to that fear. The vela, held in a funeral home close to the Center of Mejicanos, was mostly attended by family members and older people. The bodies were laid out in coffins covered with flowers and the jerseys of the guy's newly formed soccer team. Looking into the coffin was a surreal experience as I don't think I have ever seen a dead body before, all the other funerals I have been to have been cremations. I could hardly recognize either of them. It was almost impossible to connect my memories of these two guys joking in meetings, playing soccer and talking about work or girls with the vision of these two lifeless bodies soon to be buried into the earth. impossible.

I didn't know Maico or Noe as well as I know some of the kids in our other groups but I did know them. Maico was quieter but always came to the meetings, he loved to play soccer and my last memory of him is at a soccer tournament they played at about a month ago. He was freaked out to leave to community and his mom was really protective. Noe was really outgoing and was always making jokes, but he was also opinionated and always participated in meetings. He was good a drawing and creative, the other guys looked up to him and it helped in getting them involved in meetings.

When I found out that they were killed I felt nauseous and my head hurt, I cried and couldn't cry. I couldn't stop thinking about their mothers, and family members, or about their friends, the other guys in the community. I couldn't stop thinking about what the last minutes of their life must have been like. I played through all of my memories of Sierra Alta and tried to make sense of the whole thing. As I babbled on to Cesar, half crying, half dazed, I asked him if he knew people who died violently. Of course he did, he grew up in El Salvador. What would it be like to grow up with some one, go to school with them, watch them have kids and then hear that they were stabbed, shot and yes, even decapitated, two blocks from your home? Or to have grown up with kids who became gang members? Or to lose a family member and know that their murderers were still alive and living in your same community? What kind of country is this that people have to get used to hearing about these kind of things. What kind of place is this that the death of these two boys didn't make the press because it is so common? That it most likely will not get investigated by the police. That Maico and Noe will just become another number in the statistics of violent deaths in El Salvador.

Life goes on. Though it will never be the same for those families and for those kids in that community. But it still goes on. For me, this tragedy brings the statistics closer to home. And I now see more clearly how fragil life is. Sierra Alta was a small community on top of a hill overlooking the Salvadoran countryside north of the city. On windy nights, young kids would fly kites. There is a family that sells empanadas, yuca frita and papas cooked over a wood stove. Who knows when it will be that again, right now they are too afraid to leave their homes. But, who knows when life will be snatched from any community in Mejicanos, in El Salvador, anywhere. In El Salvador, you just continue with the violence hanging over your head, never knowing when it will manifest. As I visit communities, and get to know more young people I try to stay conscious of the reality of the injust situations that exist in places like this while at the same time taking in the life and energy that young people can offer. As they would say here: seguimos luchando adelante. we continue to fight on.

Youth in El Salvador

This is an article that another CRISPAZ volunteer, Megan, wrote about youth in San Salvador . Though we don't work at the same site (she works at Fe y Alegria and I work at CFO), we work with some of the same kids. One of the communities that I work in is directly across from the school where Megan works. The description she gives of the neighborhood is exactly what I see when I go into this community every Wednesday night.

Here it is:

Against the Odds: Working with High Risk Youth to Build Peaceful Communities in El Salvador
By Megan Horton, CRISPAZ Volunteer

Esmeralda is a typical 16 year old Salvadoran teenager. She goes to school, has a boyfriend, and loves to listen to reggaeton music. Her living situation is also exceedingly common for Salvadoran youth: Esmeralda and her three siblings live with their aunt and cousins in a small two room concrete and aluminum house in a crowded neighborhood in Zacamil, Mejicanos, an impoverished urban city in the north of San Salvador. Her aunt, Rosa, mends clothes for a living and while she is able to provide for them, supporting a family of eight costs more than sewing brings in.

The community where they live in Zacamil is one of the problematic in San Salvador. Hundreds of houses, just like Esmeralda’s, all grouped together, in a very small area, each with about five to seven people per house. Here narrow alleyways spotted with cockroaches double as a front yards and a garbage disposal for residents. This is not the place for an idyllic childhood. Couple poor living conditions with high population density and problems are bound to emerge. Children are often neglected or used by caretakers as an escape valve; domestic violence is prevalent in these communities.

Esmeralda’s father is an undocumented immigrant in the United States, and her mother left the family behind to make her own living in the north of El Salvador. Many other parents have chosen similar paths, leaving their children with grandmothers, aunts, cousins, or neighbors in search of a better future. Unfortunately, family disintegration is the norm among urban poor in El Salvador. From this break down of the family unit coupled with poverty, lack of opportunities, and domestic violence, a new kind of war has emerged, a gang war.

In El Salvador today, there are two main rival gangs that thrive in poorer areas of the country; the MS-13 and the 18th Street gang. Both began in Los Angeles, increased in number thanks to the marginalization of immigrants and their children, many of whom were refugees from the war. These youths never found the path to a productive life in the US. As young adults many of them were deported back to El Salvador due to their involvement in gangs and crime. Once in El Salvador, a very different country, some youth found familiarity in the gangs, and they proliferated.

From the 1990s through today, gang violence has continued to grow. Today, gangs are just one of the many factors making El Salvador one of the most violent countries in the Americas and in the world. For many young people gangs continue to be attractive. Many youth join due to lack of a family structure (the gang becomes like their family), domestic violence, need for belonging, lack of opportunity, or simply, economic need. Other times they are left no other option.

In Zacamil, the gangs have a huge influence in the daily lives of the communities. The children and youth of these communities, like Esmeralda, are living in the middle of this new war zone. On one side of the street, the MS-13 gang is in control, while across the street, it’s the 18th Street gang that reigns. It is the families who live in these communities who end up suffering the consequences when the two gangs clash. Many of Esmeralda’s childhood friends joined the gangs at a young age, some as young as 7 or 8 years old, and have since been killed.

The Salvadoran government’s response to the gang problem has been repression. They have responded with “iron fist policies”- responding to violence with more violence. There are more and more military patrols. I have seen military tanks rolling down the streets and soldiers outside where I work with high-powered machine guns. The police have begun to arrest young people simply because they think they might be in a gang- “Illicit association”. A youth can be arrested simply for being with “suspicious looking” friends on the street. More and more youth are being associated with gangs, and young, poor Salvadorans are being demonized and dehumanized. This demonization and lack of opportunities has left most young people with two choices- they can either join a gang and become involved in delinquency or leave the country- migrate to the US.

Because of the government’s lack of constructive alternatives to the violence, a few non-governmental organizations are now working in the country to try and give youth like Esmeralda a third choice- become constructive members of society and to try to build more peaceful community life. One such NGO is Fe y Alegría (literally, Faith and Happiness), where I have been doing my accompaniment work as a CRISPAZ volunteer here in El Salvador. Fe y Alegría is a popular education and social promotion organization that works throughout the Americas.

Fe y Alegria’s center in Zacamil is a unique one, completely dedicated to providing peaceful and beneficial alternatives for the children and youth in the communities. The Fe y Alegría [Educational Center for All] in Zacamil effectively serves as a before and after-school program. Here, we give the children and youth help with their homework and offer artistic workshops such as dance, painting, and carpentry. But most importantly, we let the kids just be kids; they can run around, jump rope, play tag, and of course, there are always soccer games. Instead of being cooped up in their houses or out on the streets getting into trouble, they have a place to be, a place to learn, and a place to receive positive reinforcement that people do care about them and want them to succeed.

In addition to the Fe y Alegria Center, a number of staff also dedicate time to issues in the streets. I have recently joined this group. We focus on building relationships with the community. We go to the homes of the more troubled kids to listen and talk to their mothers, or, in majority of cases, their guardians. We work toward building trust and understanding in hopes that some healing can take place. More than anything, it is giving an ear to these families and letting them know that people care about their problems.

Working with Fe y Alegría in Zacamil has opened my eyes to the troubles of youth in El Salvador. It has given me the opportunity to get to know young people such as Esmeralda, who have gotten a poor lot in life, but are now trying and improve their situation. Fe y Alegría is respected within the communities and seems to have a positive effect on the students. One youth, Eduhuey, has described it as “my second home. But I prefer to be at Fe y Alegría than my actual home.” While the situation of violence and delinquency begs for better policies all around, a better way to deal with crime, youth development, economic policies that allow Salvadorans to make an honest living in their own country and parent their children, Fe y Alegría is taking small steps to make changes in the community. It is helping these youth to break the cycle of violence that has gripped their country . Having youth who refuse to fall into a life of violence sets an example for the rest, and hopefully fewer young people will see gang life and violence as better than their own.